Style Guide
Formal Evening
The tail coatOccasion: Very formal evening events from 7pm, e.g. gala dinners or state receptions, plus theatre premieres and weddings. Invitation note: ‘White tie’.
Style: Double-breasted, but should not be buttoned up. Rising, silk lapels. Cutaway coat tails at the front, running out into a dovetail at the back. Well set off by a deep cut waistcoat and bow-tie in white piqué, tail coat shirt with stiff piqué front, upright collar and tail coat trousers with twin silk braiding and no turn-up.
Colour: Black.
Beware: Never sit on the coat-tail, but carefully hang it instead to the side or rear over the edge of your chair
The dinner suitOccasion: Formal evening events from 6pm, such as balls, the opera, theatre, concerts and sometimes also weddings.Invitation note: ‘Black tie’ or ‘Cravate noire’
Style: Single or double-breasted. With a shawl collar you should always wear a waistcoat or cummerbund, a white shirt and bow-tie.Alternatively, you can also wear a satin silk waistcoat.
Colour: Dark or black.The trousers should be colour coordinated with the jacket and have a shining braid stripe along the seam.
Beware: Trousers with turn-ups are not dinner suit trousers!
The Dinner jacketOccasion: Cocktail parties, informal weddings, elegant summer celebrations and receptions on cruises.
Style: The outdoor version of the dinner suit. Single-breasted, with shawl collar and pockets edged with piping. For combining with a dress shirt, dinner suit trousers, coordinated bow-tie and dress handkerchief.
Colour: White or ecru.
Beware: Avoid white socks on formal occasions.
The wedding suit
Occasion: Weddings, formal occasions of any kind.
Style: The fashionable alternative to the dinner suit. Waistcoat and accessories are colour coordinated with the bride’s dress.“Be brave! Variety is the spice of life!”
Colour: Ranging from bright, fresh colours to dark shades.
Beware: Shoes should be colour coordinated with the outfit.
Formal Daytime
The morning coatOccasion: Weddings, registry office, receptions and at the races.
Style: A ‘daytime tail coat’, as it were. Always single-breasted, with rising lapels. Unlike on the tail coat, the tails are cut from the closing button in a downwards curve to the rear. Should be combined with a grey waistcoat and striped trousers with no turn-up, white collar shirt, silver-grey tie or ascot and a dress handkerchief.
Colour: Black or anthracite.
Beware: Grey top-hats are worn with morning coats only in the most elite social circles.
The long jacketOccasion: Semi-official occasions, such as weddings, exhibition openings, commercial opening events etc.
Style: Single-breasted with or without waistcoat. Trousers with no turn-up. Silver-grey tie, plain or discreetly patterned. For weddings, accessories colour coordinated with the bride’s dress.
Colour: Predominantly in black – but also in other fashionable colours.
Beware: A long jacket only really looks right on someone tall enough to carry it off.
Business suit
白领结”一词所代表的是男士晚间穿的大礼服，用黑呢料裁制，上衣前胸只到腰部为止，因此亦称cutaway，后背中分，垂到膝后，所以称燕尾服（swallow-tail）。大礼服里面最好穿两角翘起的硬衬衫（stiff front shirt with wing collar），配法国式回褶袖口（French cuff），以袖扣（cufflinks）连接。衬衫外须穿浆硬的白背心（white waistcoat）。脚上穿黑丝袜与漆皮鞋（patent leather shoes）。，才以“白领结”为代表词。
“黑领结”（black tie）则是小礼服的简称。黑呢料，剪裁有似普通西服，只上衣领改用黑缎，式样稍圆，无领角；裤脚两侧各有一条黑缎到底。腰缠黑绸横褶式的宽带（cummerbund）。配小礼服的衬衫可以很花俏，前胸可有很多褶子（pleated front），领角也可以翘起，法国式袖口与袖扣，黑丝袜与漆皮鞋也不可或缺。国外凡正式晚宴或歌剧院首演，习惯上都要穿小礼服。
早礼服，是在白天遇有国家大典时的穿著。以灰色呢料缝制。外套前后一致都垂到膝部，后面不开衩，与燕尾服有别。灰色背心，白衬衫，灰色领带，黑灰两色直条呢裤（striped pants）。日本首相觐见天皇或参拜神社时，他穿的一定是早礼服。
士穿黑领结或白领结礼服时，同行女士应穿长及地晚服以资配合。但男士穿早礼服时，女士反而只能穿长及膝部的日间服装，配宽边帽。我们夫妇在南非呈递国书与每年国会开幕之日，都要这样穿著。现在台湾邦交国愈来愈少，有这种经验的外交官也不剩几位了。
posted by SEAN @ 6:03 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home